Binondo, Manila

Binondo Chinatown

A Culinary and Cultural Adventure in the Oldest Chinatown

PUBLISHED October 12, 2009

PHOTOS | WORDS BY MARIANO SAYNO

Today, Binondo stands as a vibrant testament to Manila’s rich history and cultural diversity, seamlessly blending its historic legacy with modern dynamism. Its streets, from Escolta to Ongpin Street, continue to be bustling hubs of commerce and culinary delight, reflecting the district’s enduring significance. The iconic Binondo Church and San Lorenzo Ruiz serve as enduring symbols of its deep cultural and historical roots. As both a historic and contemporary center, Binondo remains a vital part of Manila’s cultural landscape, cherished by locals and visitors alike.

Explore the Philippines through my lens as we venture into Binondo Chinatown with Point of View (POV) photography. Using a body cam, I’ll guide you on an interactive tour, revealing the behind-the-scenes of capturing the shots shared here. Let’s dive into this visual journey together and uncover the wonders through my lens!

Let’s explore the PHILIPPINES through my lens as we journey on a photo slideshow to Binondo Chinatown. Join me in this visual adventure and discover the wonders captured through my lens! Check out the shared slideshow here.

Binondo Chinatown, located in Manila, is renowned as the city’s historic Chinatown and is distinguished as the oldest Chinatown in the world. Established in 1594 by Spanish authorities, this district was strategically placed across the Pasig River from Intramuros to accommodate Catholic Chinese immigrants, allowing the colonial administration to closely monitor them.

Check out the video for more highlights. See what I’ve captured through my lens with Point of View (POV) photography. Using a body cam, I’ll take you on an interactive tour, showing you behind-the-scenes moments of capturing the shots shared here.

Check out the video below for additional features. Explore what I’ve captured through my lens in this cinematic slideshow.

As the earliest settlement for Chinese migrants in the Philippines, Binondo quickly became a vital area for commerce and cultural exchange. It served as a bridge between the local Filipino population and the incoming Chinese traders and settlers, laying the foundation for the rich, multicultural tapestry that characterizes the district today.

Spanish Dominican Influence

The Spanish Dominican fathers were crucial in the development of Binondo. They established it as their parish and worked diligently to convert many of its residents to Catholicism. This religious transformation was pivotal in shaping the district’s character and in fostering a community of Chinese mestizos, who were the offspring of Chinese immigrants and indigenous Filipino women.

This conversion and intermarriage led to the formation of a unique cultural group within Binondo. Over the years, the mestizo population grew rapidly, contributing to the area’s development and integration into the broader social and economic fabric of Manila.

ABOVE: The Binondo Church, or Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz, founded in 1596, was rebuilt in 1852 after being destroyed in 1762, and later damaged during World War II, leaving only its western façade and belfry intact.

The 1603 Revolt

In 1603, Binondo experienced a significant upheaval with a Chinese revolt led by Juan Suntay, a wealthy Chinese Catholic. The uprising was a dramatic response to tensions and was quickly subdued by Spanish and Filipino forces under Luis Pérez Dasmariñas. This event resulted in the deaths of most of the 20,000 Chinese residents in the colony.

The revolt was precipitated by the arrival of three Chinese representatives who claimed to be searching for “a mountain of gold.” Their unusual report sparked fears among the Spanish authorities of an impending invasion from China, leading to the harsh suppression of the revolt.

British Occupation and Post-War Era

During the British occupation of Manila from 1762 to 1764, Binondo suffered damage as the city was captured and subsequently occupied. Despite the destruction, Binondo managed to rebuild and reestablish itself as a central hub for business and finance in the region.

In the years following the occupation, Binondo continued to grow as a key economic center, serving the ethnic Chinese, Chinese mestizos, and Spanish Filipinos. The Spanish colonial period saw extensive development in the area, including the construction of esteros (canals) to facilitate trade and transport via the Pasig River.

ABOVE: During the Chinese New Year, vibrant lucky charm stalls burst with colorful lanterns, inviting shoppers seeking good fortune and prosperity. These lanterns symbolize the light that guides us to luck while warding off evil spirits.

Commercial Hub: Escolta

Escólta, one of Manila’s oldest streets, was established in 1594 and derives its name from the Spanish word “escoltar,” meaning “to escort.” This historic street became a bustling commercial artery, attracting immigrant merchants, particularly from Fujian, China, who were eager to capitalize on the opportunities presented by the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade.

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By the late 19th century, Escólta had evolved into a fashionable business district, lined with shops and boutiques that offered a wide range of imported goods from China, Europe, and Latin America, arriving through the nearby port of San Nicolas. The street was home to the city’s tallest buildings and the Manila Stock Exchange, and it boasted modern department stores and an electric tram line known as the tranvía. However, Escólta’s prominence began to decline in the 1960s as business activities shifted to Makati.